Narcis GalleryMadeiraJuly 2026
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Madeira

The Hawaii of Europe, and rightly so

July 2026Portugal32.7607° N, 16.9595° W82 frames

I spent a week on Madeira with Melchior, a close friend of mine. We were surprised by how diverse the island is, with so many different microclimates. We could drive for half an hour and go from sun to cloud, dry cliffs to thick forest. The main hikes are among the best we had ever done in Europe.

The hike that stuck with us is Pico Grande. We’d done Pico do Arieiro a couple of days earlier, the famous one, and it was as good as expected. Pico Grande was quieter, rougher and, for us, better. We spent most of the way up above a layer of cloud, then scrambled the last section to the summit with almost nobody around. The views at the top were among the best I had ever seen in a while.

One thing we skipped, partly on purpose and partly by accident: the levadas. Every one we passed was packed with tour groups, and at the time we couldn’t tell if that was because they’re genuinely worth the queue or just because every guidebook says so. We spent the end of the week on cliff edges and coastal towns instead. I’ve even tried some surfing at Paul do Mar, although the wave breaks in 30cm of water over big boulders, so let’s say that I didn’t feel most confident going in the water…

I went for my zoom lens on this trip (16-55mm) and it turned out to be a good decision. It offered me the ability to easily frame my shots when freedom of movement was limited: narrow edges, peaks, viewpoint platforms…

Shot on

Fujifilm X-T5 with XF 16–55mm f/2.8 Mark II

Funchal first, then up into the mountains

We started in Funchal and spent the first couple of days around the old town. Curral das Freiras was our first trip into the mountains, and the first time we got a sense of how abruptly the island rises.

On the ridge

Our first proper hike, and the famous one. The path spends most of its time on the ridge, with huge drops on either side. By the time we reached the top the cloud had moved in, so we saw less than we had hoped. Still worth it.

Above the cloud line

This was the hike of the trip. Quieter than Pico do Arieiro, and we both agreed with extraordinary views from start to finish. The peak itself was the most impressive, as we both felt on top of the world. On the way back the cloud stayed just beneath the path for most of the descent. It added a mystic mood to the whole experience.

Where the forest runs out

The dry eastern tip of the island felt like somewhere else entirely. After several days of forest and cloud, there was suddenly almost no green left.

High cliffs, coastal towns and greener valleys

This part of the trip was more about driving around on the winding roads of the north coast, stoping at the many viewpoints and relaxing in the natural pools. We also did a hike in one of the levandas, it was nice but slightly less impressive than the Picos.